Who needs technology?

Saturday 2nd December

Wireless has gone down across Kunming so I am unable to log in at all. Thought it was faulty at the Hump Hostel but when I got to the Cloudland Hostel the same problem there – “we fix by Monday” they say. OK, bang goes my geeky weekend. So, I’ve moved to the Cloundland hostel, more Subtle than The Hump, a good 5 minutes bus ride out of town,but always good to discover a new area. I found a proper local market around the corner which I would not have experienced if I hadn’t have switchd hostels. The hostel is smaller than The Hump, the rooms are new, with pine beds and very comfortable matresses. The girls here are very friendly, and there’a a fridge to put my milk, a girl needs her home comforts occasionally, a traditional english breakfast tea with proper milk. There is also a humongous Walmart, I am now officially scared of Chineese Hypermarkets – three or is that four floors of chineese madness, selling everything from snakes eyeballs in tomato sauce to the kitchen sink in turtle wax. I did however manage to purchase something that hadn’t been previously living – a flask as my current one isn’t keeping the water hot. So, by the time I had navigated my way through Walmart it was the year 2008, how time flys when you are having fun. Back to December 2006…(Walmart were even wishing their customers a very Happy Christmas) This Saturday evening it was one of the guests birthday so the hostel had made cake, we learned how to say “cheers” and “congratulations” in Mandarin, along with an international version of “happy birthday”.

Managed to find an internet cafe to log on and check my next destination. Unfortantly it wont let me log into Flickr which is a shame as I have a bunch of photos I would like to upload.

Off on an 8 day walk soon so no internet access for a while. I then fly to Hong Kong so later…

Green Parks and Golden Temples

Sunday 3rd December 2006

Internet is still down today, so I have rearranged my day, as I was going to do some web work for friends. I first navigated the post office again which was compelling and expensive. I then took a route through the local fruit, veg and meat market. The dazzling colours of exotic and not so exotic vegetables piled high as locals rush to buy their goods. The smell of street food floating in the air, and the many dumpling vendors, rushing to keep up with demand. I walked to a park called “green lake” where i was met with an Aurora of colourful boats and lots of stalls selling foodstuff such as sweetcorn, kebabs and sweet potato. Locals out with their families walking and enjoying the sunshine created a vibrant atmosphere. I miscalculated my navigational skills, but all turned out well as I ended up in the flower and bird market where they were genuinly selling live turtles in little washing up bowls in addition to chickens in little plastic cages, knick nacks but not too many flowers. Further up the lane, someone calls out “you want kebab” – no thanks turtle on a stick does not do it for me. The afternoon I caught the bus to “temple palace” a park on the outskirts of the city, for a 40 minute journey 6p and £1.40 entrance fee felt like a bargain afternoon out. I am wearing just a t-shirt today its a gorgeous day, the sun is shining through the smog – it feels like a holi-day today. The return journey on the bus (6p back) music was playing, not chart music, not dance music, not classical music – oh no the chineese go one step further – “old macdonald had a farm” – eee aaay ee aaay oohh, and on that farm he had some turtles, eee aaay ee aaay oohh, and the turtles go “don’t make me into a kebab, eee aaay ee aaay oohh. Time to get my MP3 player out I think. A supermarket stop (not to walmart this time though nearly as gigantic) stocked up on a few nibbles including some interesting looking biscuits, juice and a bit of fruit that I trusted more than some of the street vendors. My new bargain purchase today was an orange padlock for 30p (the type you pay about £3 for in the UK) as my current padlock is malfunctioning. Chineese supermarkets are an experience to remember. Imagine Oxford Street in London on Christmas Eve with amplifiers at full volume banging out Christmas Carols. It’s very much like that apart from I was shopping around to the joyful sounds of “jingle bells” in both english and mandarin – Exquisite.

Hard as Stone

Friday 1st December

Today we are going to the Stone Forest. This first consisted of a bus that took me to a bus station where buses to the Stone Forest did not go. Armed with map the best I could do is point to the chineese for “stone forest” and get directed through pointing and saying “thank you” in Mandarin. Half an hour later I found the proper bus station and got pointed onto a random bus. The system is somewhat erratic here in China, for some buses you need to purchase tickets before you get on the bus, others you pay on the bus, this was apparently a pay on the bus type bus. An interesting stop at one of the outlaying cities was the source of my amusement as the street vendors came onto the bus selling sweetcorn, eggs, snails on sticks and drinks. To put it in perspective these buses are the 3/4 length ones and about 6 different people with their chineese hats get on and start wafting their food right under your nose, the universal word for no is to just shake your head many times. Some two hours later (I was told it would take about an hour) I arrived at a bus station where everyone got off – must be my stop though no sign of the Stone Forest. My pointing techniques are improving as I was directed to yet another “bus” – this time a very small mini bus enough room for 3 people yet over 6 of us (all others being chineese) were crammed in, along with some dead animal in a carrier bag. Lovely. Along this rickety road we went, dropping people off along the way. Although I had only paid 12p for this journey I was wondering whether it was worth the money. Eventually the driver pointed to me to get off the bus, I had arrived! Hurrah! The mass of chineese and japaneese tour buses decended upon me. As i walked down I got asked several times if i wanted “lunch” – it was only around 11.30 so no I did not want lunch, and anyhow I had brought my own somewhat more civilised lunch, I was still not game for dog on toast. Inside the Park the monstrosoties of the karst landscape rose above me, everywhere were these tall rocks, an amazing view. Shame about all the tourists though with their little red hats and the guides with the flags, “this a way” “that a way” “the other way”. Glad I was able to explore on my own in my own time. Luckily the trip back was less eventful as there was after all a bus direct to and from the Stone Forest to Kunming, which was nice and easy, until it dropped us all off at a completely different bus station. I name Kunming the “city of bus stations” – how many are there? The map I have with me has bus routes on so it was easy to find my way back to the Hostel. Tired and in need of some nice hot food, back at the hostel tonight was “hot pot” night, a free hotpot for all guests. Hot it was and very very tasty as we all dug in, placing the vegetables and meat into the pot, and helping ourselves. No sign of dead animals that I have known to have had as pets which was a good sign. I have decided to move hostels, not because the hump is a bad hostel, far from it, its lovely, the only problem is that it turns into a bar/club in the evening and there is no seperate room for those who just want to relax without the music blasting out. The music also penetrates into the rooms so its difficult to get sleep. I have chosen a hostel not so central for my next two nights, which I will go to tomorrow.

Being Domesticated

Thursday 30th November 2006 Even when travelling you need to be domesticated some days. As the sun is shining washing is drying within half a day so a load goes in, this is a relief after Chengdu washing. I won’t need my hairdryer this time around. Even when travelling you need day to day food so a trip to the supermarket was experienced. I went early after a free breakfast at the hostel consisting of toast and apple – seems to be the “in” thing here in China. The fruit was a godsend that for sure. My trip to the supermarket passed on a couple of hours, on one floor was a maze of everything – from electronic goods, to clothes to household goods to toys. I bought a couple of christmas presents along the way, spending all of about 20p. Oh so generous! Will probably cost me 100 x that to post them knowing China Post. The supermarket even had christmas cards and decorations which I found amusing. Watch out you may get a chineese christmas card off me. On the second floor was food, lots of it, not just lots but lots and lots. I bought some juice, fruit (bananas are about 3p each, apples a bit more expensive at about 12p each), often delights that I wouldn’t even think of touching beckoned me, but being sensible I stuck to the things that looked edible (strawberry bread – hmmmm – not so keen to be honest). Most importantly I picked up some more tea (english breakfast) and some proper milk, along with my 6p yoghurts. Armed with shopping bags I ploughed back to the hostel dodging the many bikes which I am now getting accoustomed to. The free internet is a little dodgy, but its free so no complaining please. Its a nice atmosphere here, with rooftop terrace to catch the sun. Ample supplies of tea are keeping me at bay. Chatted to a chineese guy for the afternoon whilst soaking in the sun and drinking tea. He wanted to practice english with me – trying to explain how to pronounce the sound “th” as in “thing” or “thank” and talking about the “bath” pronunciation (north v’s south – it is NOT “barrrth” there is no “r” in bath, it’s B-A-T-H. Ok? Not that I am going to get one of those for a while. Showers are hot though so thats ok.

Coming to Kunming

Wednesday 29th November 2006

I’ve been on my travels for two weeks now, as I leave the very friendy Mix Hostel. The staff were lovely, spoke very good english and would go out of their way to help and advise you, and the cats were very friendly too. The food was cheap and good quality too, though I think I have now had enough rice to fill wembley stadium 100 times over. Arrived in Kunming after playing dodgems with the bikes, taxi’s, cars and planes in Chengdu. Typically the day I leave the sun shines in Chengdu. The sun only shines 100 days of the year in Chengdu. The flight was just over an hour, an interesting “snack” came round – it may have been the chineese version of an authentic “hot dog” – but with real dog and cold. This consisted of a bread roll with a cold sausage wedged in the middle of it. I wouldn’t put it past them that it was real “cold dog”. Lovely. Taxi drivers at the airport were going to rip me off – I was going to get the bus but decided betweent 18p or 70p I would opt for a taxi at 70p this time. I am sure I can afford it. Managed to get to my next home “the hump hostel” for about 70p after they realised I was not going to pay £4. The hostel flyers are very good and often state a rough price of a taxi from the airport or train station so you know if someone is ripping you off, even though its not really been ripped off compared to UK standards. Hostel has wireless though I think its a bit slow as my flickr pictures of my last hostel – Mix Hostel are taking ages to upload. Due to excess rice I have just opted for a tuna sandwich at the hostel this afternoon, I think my body needs a bit of western food today, (but not chips or dog)